matikatak
02-26-2008, 03:18 PM
So not you have got your digital slr and have been shooting cups, saucers and everything and anything in the house. You have got a few lenses and think that you will hold off buying them for a moment.
But…. There is still an itch… with any luck, there are still some funds left in your year end bonus and you have not really lost all your ang pow money gambling. So here’s the thing, there’s an itch to scratch and there are some loose change in the pocket. You thought, what the heck, let’s go film. Getting new lenses are so yesterday. There is not much bragging righst in getting new lenses except exotic ones. Getting a film camera gives you much much bigger bragging rights.
But… the thing is, you know nuts about film camera. So how buy one without getting screwed?
Fear not, here I list down a few things to look for when getting a film camera. Actually not necessarily film camera, but more to a mechanical camera.
1. Before anything, if it is a mechanical camera, hold it near your ear and turn it a bit. Try to listen if there are any loose parts. If there are, then it is probably a sign of issue. But mind you that not all sounds you hear means that there is something wrong. Some parts e.g. the film take up might be designed to be lost and will move around a bit when film is not loaded. So you have to make your judgement.
2. Check the exterior of the camera for any dings, scratches or brassing. Dings and scratches could be sign of camera being dropped before. For a well used cameras do expect the corners to be either dinged or scratched. Dings and scratches can indicate severity/condition of the camera depending of the location. E.g. if the ding is on the top plate, then you might want to be careful because that is where the metering and most of the sensitive parts are located (e.g. rf mechanism for rangefinders). If it is at the bottomplate, you might want to check if the back can be closed properly. Do take note of the hinges if it is on the hinged side. If it is on the latch side, check if the latch can close the door properly. Just use common sense when it comes to dings and scratches.
3. Check the light seal. Basically the camera body is supposed to be a light tight box. Most of the parts should be intact, but for a film camera, the area that is of concern is on the camera back. First look for any dents at the edges. Dents may indicate a non perfect seal (therefore light leak). Next, look at the seal itself. Depending on the camera model the seal can be a simple mechanical one or can sometimes be a thin layer of black sponge. The latter is the one that normally cause issue. Because in some cases the sponge degrades and flake off. Try to run your finger through the sponge and see if there are any flaking. If there is, then you might want to rethink. Another thing to note is that some cameras have a small window so that you can see what film is loaded after the door is closed. Sheck the area around the window for light leaks.
4. If it is a fixed lens camera, check the lens for fungus. To do that, set the shutter speed to bulb (B) and then open the film cover. Turn the aperture ring to the maximum aperture (means open it wide wide). Look through the lens and see if you can see any fungus. If there are any, they are normally at the edge of the lens. Fungus looks like some fine lines. Something sort of like spider webs. If the fungus are minor and at the edge, you can still consider, but for me personally I try not to because depending on the condition, fungus can spread very fast.
5. Then check the film chamber. Check pressure plate on the door, it should be flat and normally is. This is the plate that presses your film flat on the camera so that film sits accurately on the focus point. Check the area around the cavity between the lens and the film. The most important thing to look for is any sharp or abnormal points that will scratch the film. Unlike a digital camera, there are mechanical movement in a film camera. The main concern from this is the risk of dust or nicks to scratch the film when it is being wind from frame to frame. Look the area that the camera comes into contact with the camera and make sure that they are smooth and will not scratch the film.
6. Check the shutter. If it is an interchangeable lens camera, look at the shutter door look for any abnormality. E.g. oil stains, mechanical defects, scratch marks etc. the shutter is the most important part and if there are any abnormality, it is normally and indication of issues.
7. Check for signs of previous services. Look at the screws. If the camera or lens have been opened post assembly, there are normally small nicks on the screw head. It will just seem not right. If it have been serviced, ask the seller on what are the thing being serviced and repaired.
8. Check the metering accuracy. Bring your camera and take the metering with it. Then meter the same condition with the camera you plan to buy. You get the point… but as a fadditional note is to load a roll of slides and shoot. Slides are very unforgiving on exposure issues and the result will show, also, unlike print film it cannot be corrected post development. So it is an indication of exposure accuracy.
9. Lastly do the usual walk through. Click here click there, press here press thera nd asee if there are any issues. Check the electrical contacts (if any), check for smoothness of moving parts etc.
These are the items that I can think of at the moment. If anyone else have additional or want to correct me do chip in.
But…. There is still an itch… with any luck, there are still some funds left in your year end bonus and you have not really lost all your ang pow money gambling. So here’s the thing, there’s an itch to scratch and there are some loose change in the pocket. You thought, what the heck, let’s go film. Getting new lenses are so yesterday. There is not much bragging righst in getting new lenses except exotic ones. Getting a film camera gives you much much bigger bragging rights.
But… the thing is, you know nuts about film camera. So how buy one without getting screwed?
Fear not, here I list down a few things to look for when getting a film camera. Actually not necessarily film camera, but more to a mechanical camera.
1. Before anything, if it is a mechanical camera, hold it near your ear and turn it a bit. Try to listen if there are any loose parts. If there are, then it is probably a sign of issue. But mind you that not all sounds you hear means that there is something wrong. Some parts e.g. the film take up might be designed to be lost and will move around a bit when film is not loaded. So you have to make your judgement.
2. Check the exterior of the camera for any dings, scratches or brassing. Dings and scratches could be sign of camera being dropped before. For a well used cameras do expect the corners to be either dinged or scratched. Dings and scratches can indicate severity/condition of the camera depending of the location. E.g. if the ding is on the top plate, then you might want to be careful because that is where the metering and most of the sensitive parts are located (e.g. rf mechanism for rangefinders). If it is at the bottomplate, you might want to check if the back can be closed properly. Do take note of the hinges if it is on the hinged side. If it is on the latch side, check if the latch can close the door properly. Just use common sense when it comes to dings and scratches.
3. Check the light seal. Basically the camera body is supposed to be a light tight box. Most of the parts should be intact, but for a film camera, the area that is of concern is on the camera back. First look for any dents at the edges. Dents may indicate a non perfect seal (therefore light leak). Next, look at the seal itself. Depending on the camera model the seal can be a simple mechanical one or can sometimes be a thin layer of black sponge. The latter is the one that normally cause issue. Because in some cases the sponge degrades and flake off. Try to run your finger through the sponge and see if there are any flaking. If there is, then you might want to rethink. Another thing to note is that some cameras have a small window so that you can see what film is loaded after the door is closed. Sheck the area around the window for light leaks.
4. If it is a fixed lens camera, check the lens for fungus. To do that, set the shutter speed to bulb (B) and then open the film cover. Turn the aperture ring to the maximum aperture (means open it wide wide). Look through the lens and see if you can see any fungus. If there are any, they are normally at the edge of the lens. Fungus looks like some fine lines. Something sort of like spider webs. If the fungus are minor and at the edge, you can still consider, but for me personally I try not to because depending on the condition, fungus can spread very fast.
5. Then check the film chamber. Check pressure plate on the door, it should be flat and normally is. This is the plate that presses your film flat on the camera so that film sits accurately on the focus point. Check the area around the cavity between the lens and the film. The most important thing to look for is any sharp or abnormal points that will scratch the film. Unlike a digital camera, there are mechanical movement in a film camera. The main concern from this is the risk of dust or nicks to scratch the film when it is being wind from frame to frame. Look the area that the camera comes into contact with the camera and make sure that they are smooth and will not scratch the film.
6. Check the shutter. If it is an interchangeable lens camera, look at the shutter door look for any abnormality. E.g. oil stains, mechanical defects, scratch marks etc. the shutter is the most important part and if there are any abnormality, it is normally and indication of issues.
7. Check for signs of previous services. Look at the screws. If the camera or lens have been opened post assembly, there are normally small nicks on the screw head. It will just seem not right. If it have been serviced, ask the seller on what are the thing being serviced and repaired.
8. Check the metering accuracy. Bring your camera and take the metering with it. Then meter the same condition with the camera you plan to buy. You get the point… but as a fadditional note is to load a roll of slides and shoot. Slides are very unforgiving on exposure issues and the result will show, also, unlike print film it cannot be corrected post development. So it is an indication of exposure accuracy.
9. Lastly do the usual walk through. Click here click there, press here press thera nd asee if there are any issues. Check the electrical contacts (if any), check for smoothness of moving parts etc.
These are the items that I can think of at the moment. If anyone else have additional or want to correct me do chip in.