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  #31  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:57 AM
Garlic Garlic is offline
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Uncle R,

Wah you are quick, still to finish my washing on my shots. The sand bags gave a good lead into the foto. On the composition side I would tend to loose the 1st 4 bags since its not jiving with the rest of the boats so how - too over powering.
The only shot I can think of that will work is the main subject is very near yet you need the DOF for background to enhance, just my think.


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Originally Posted by neoro View Post
I thnk your focal lengths might be too close together :p
I thot these are pretty standard lenses for 90-wide, 150-normal & 210-portrait for 4x5
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Last edited by Garlic; 09-29-2010 at 08:06 AM..
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  #32  
Old 09-29-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garlic View Post
Uncle R,

Wah you are quick, still to finish my washing on my shots. The sand bags gave a good lead into the foto. On the composition side I would tend to loose the 1st 4 bags since its not jiving with the rest of the boats so how - too over powering.
The only shot I can think of that will work is the main subject is very near yet you need the DOF for background to enhance, just my think.




I thot these are pretty standard lenses for 90-wide, 150-normal & 210-portrait for 4x5
I think there is no standard, however what I notice on LF, portrait lenses are more specific, special to the ancient projector lenses giving mind blowing bokehs with killer DOF - not forgetting the manually triggered shutter, where you use cardboards...

For landscape i see the use of 90mm all the way to 400mm for 4x5. I did ask a general approach to the focal lengths and was advised on doubling the effective range of each lens. :p

Now is a matter of time before Ridzuan gets 8x10!!
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  #33  
Old 09-29-2010, 03:44 PM
Garlic Garlic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoro View Post
I think there is no standard, however what I notice on LF, portrait lenses are more specific, special to the ancient projector lenses giving mind blowing bokehs with killer DOF - not forgetting the manually triggered shutter, where you use cardboards...

For landscape i see the use of 90mm all the way to 400mm for 4x5. I did ask a general approach to the focal lengths and was advised on doubling the effective range of each lens. :p

Now is a matter of time before Ridzuan gets 8x10!!
Well Uncle R is a predominantly a seacapegrapher so no problem with those lenses therefore the >100 year Petzval old brass lens is not his cuppa, for me the older the better
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  #34  
Old 09-29-2010, 04:02 PM
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Garlic, i like over powering.. as much that i fantasize sometimes to be over-powered ... (my intended main subject is the curvy bunds and not so much of the boats, in fact i have removed 2 boats he he)

Neoro, you maybe right. The two yet-to-arrived lenses were "a steal" from eBay and thats why I bought. I gotta match that Garlic museum, and I want to eventually have the capability to return the poison to him. The other reason is that; I am comfortable doing 20mm-70mm in small format and hence decided for the 90-150-210mm for the LF equivalence. I am figuring the 65mm too, but i gonna give these trio a go.

I am now operating the Jobo CPE-2 for film development for 35mm and 120 using the Jobo 1500 series tank. Recently acquired the 2500 series tank but unfortunately it cannot be fitted with the CPE2 processor. I therefore improvised a tank turning jig and do a manual rotation agitation. The result as the image i attached above.

I was near a small German town of Gummersbach (HQ for Jobo) last week, wanted to get stock for the development accessories but the company has already been liquidated.

Knowing Garlic and his invention of BTZS-like development tubes,.. Neoro, can you pls share with us your modus operandi for LF film development (perhaps I should open a new thread neh?)
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Last edited by ridzuan; 09-29-2010 at 09:52 PM..
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  #35  
Old 09-29-2010, 05:09 PM
Garlic Garlic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridzuan View Post
Garlic, i like over powering.. as much that i fantasize sometimes to be over-powered ... (my intended main subject is the curvy bunds and not so much of the boats, in fact i have removed 2 boats he he)

Neoro, you maybe right. The two yet-to-arrived lenses were "a steal" from eBay and thats why I bought. I gotta match that Garlic museum, and I want to eventually have the capability to return the poison to him. The other reason is that; I am comfortable doing 20mm-70mm in small format and hence decided for the 90-150-210mm for the LF equivalence. I am figuring the 65mm too, but i gonna give these trio a go.

I am now operating the Jobo CPE-2 for film development for 35mm and 120 using the Jobo 1500 series tank. Recently acquired the 2500 series tank but unfortunately it cannot be fitted with the CPE2 processor. I therefore device a tank turning jig and do a manual rotation agitation. The result as the image i attached above.

I was near a small Germany town of Gummersbach (HQ for Jobo), wanted to get stock for the development accessories but the company has already been liquidated.

Knowing Garlic and his invention of BTZS-like development tubes,.. Neoro, can you pls share with us your modus operandi for LF film development (perhaps I should open a new thread neh?)
If that is the case yes it does emphasis, didn't know you like sand bags that much

Can no problem, let me have at a look at your tube problem for a solution
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  #36  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:09 PM
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I will be waiting patiently for your multi sheet design.

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Originally Posted by Garlic View Post
Now that you have broken "fast" I also saw a spike in my 4x5 development activity beside my MF & 135.
Have to rethink about how to increase my single sheet design to a multi-sheet per washing. I have a ruf idea of doing a 4-sheet system.
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  #37  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:19 PM
JLwc JLwc is offline
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Hey, I'm missing out all those LF stuff. Ridzuan where did you get that Jobo CPE=2. I have been doing a lot if film developing as I have gotten used to loading the 120mm into the reel.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ridzuan View Post
Garlic, i like over powering.. as much that i fantasize sometimes to be over-powered ... (my intended main subject is the curvy bunds and not so much of the boats, in fact i have removed 2 boats he he)

Neoro, you maybe right. The two yet-to-arrived lenses were "a steal" from eBay and thats why I bought. I gotta match that Garlic museum, and I want to eventually have the capability to return the poison to him. The other reason is that; I am comfortable doing 20mm-70mm in small format and hence decided for the 90-150-210mm for the LF equivalence. I am figuring the 65mm too, but i gonna give these trio a go.

I am now operating the Jobo CPE-2 for film development for 35mm and 120 using the Jobo 1500 series tank. Recently acquired the 2500 series tank but unfortunately it cannot be fitted with the CPE2 processor. I therefore improvised a tank turning jig and do a manual rotation agitation. The result as the image i attached above.

I was near a small Germany town of Gummersbach (HQ for Jobo) last week, wanted to get stock for the development accessories but the company has already been liquidated.

Knowing Garlic and his invention of BTZS-like development tubes,.. Neoro, can you pls share with us your modus operandi for LF film development (perhaps I should open a new thread neh?)
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  #38  
Old 09-29-2010, 09:59 PM
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hi Jeff
nice for you to drop by. As i have said, you cant get the new CPE2 or other similar Jobo processors as the company has closed down. However you can get them new/2nd hand on eBay but they gonna be expensive. You may try to ask Uncle Ho of Ruby Photo SG if he is keeping old unsold inventory or you acquire thru eBay 2nd hand. SOmetimes you can see them listed. The other option, you can buy other daylight tanks or other development jigs from eBay. Sean may come up with some devices as well. When i get back to Penang soon, i will post my contraptions. Stay tune
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  #39  
Old 09-30-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garlic View Post
Well Uncle R is a predominantly a seacapegrapher so no problem with those lenses therefore the >100 year Petzval old brass lens is not his cuppa, for me the older the better
hahaha, we're talking about Mr. R as though we're analyzing like the NYSE :p

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridzuan View Post
Garlic, i like over powering.. as much that i fantasize sometimes to be over-powered ... (my intended main subject is the curvy bunds and not so much of the boats, in fact i have removed 2 boats he he)

Neoro, you maybe right. The two yet-to-arrived lenses were "a steal" from eBay and thats why I bought. I gotta match that Garlic museum, and I want to eventually have the capability to return the poison to him. The other reason is that; I am comfortable doing 20mm-70mm in small format and hence decided for the 90-150-210mm for the LF equivalence. I am figuring the 65mm too, but i gonna give these trio a go.

I am now operating the Jobo CPE-2 for film development for 35mm and 120 using the Jobo 1500 series tank. Recently acquired the 2500 series tank but unfortunately it cannot be fitted with the CPE2 processor. I therefore improvised a tank turning jig and do a manual rotation agitation. The result as the image i attached above.

I was near a small German town of Gummersbach (HQ for Jobo) last week, wanted to get stock for the development accessories but the company has already been liquidated.

Knowing Garlic and his invention of BTZS-like development tubes,.. Neoro, can you pls share with us your modus operandi for LF film development (perhaps I should open a new thread neh?)
Oh no... you sound like Garlic already!!

I improvised using a bigger Petterson Tank. Extend the film holder out to the size of 4 inches and tape them on the beam. As my tank is bigger I am able to do this, up to 5 inches - meaning 5x7 should technically have no issues.

I was concern of uneven developing as the developer would have to reach both sides, hence I did the above. Let me write something about this on a seperate note :p

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLwc View Post
Hey, I'm missing out all those LF stuff. Ridzuan where did you get that Jobo CPE=2. I have been doing a lot if film developing as I have gotten used to loading the 120mm into the reel.
There may be one processor at a second hand shop in peninsula still. A bit beast!! not too sure if its sold, but like Mr. R mentioned! Ebay is your friend, and the world is your enemy... These items move FAST!!
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  #40  
Old 09-30-2010, 10:51 AM
Garlic Garlic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoro View Post
hahaha, we're talking about Mr. R as though we're analyzing like the NYSE :p



Oh no... you sound like Garlic already!!

I improvised using a bigger Petterson Tank. Extend the film holder out to the size of 4 inches and tape them on the beam. As my tank is bigger I am able to do this, up to 5 inches - meaning 5x7 should technically have no issues.

I was concern of uneven developing as the developer would have to reach both sides, hence I did the above. Let me write something about this on a separate note :p



There may be one processor at a second hand shop in peninsula still. A bit beast!! not too sure if its sold, but like Mr. R mentioned! Ebay is your friend, and the world is your enemy... These items move FAST!!
Hahahaha It is after all an investment if you choose the right oldies in mint condition, you can see a return after years of careful usage. Its like owning a property, invest at the right time & at the right price you get rent free + appreciation.

Actually Uncle R has been successfully cloned liao, I also caught sight of a glimmer of Rolleiflex 2.8F in his eyes

I tried to do that with my Jobo & Paterson tanks but physically too shot even it can take 2x135 reels stacked, thus the tubes with the 1hour stand development I can do spaced out as many tubes but with the time penalty to two hours once I get passed 4 sheets.

As for the uneven wash, I now switched to the 1:100 parodinal which can reduced the bromide drags during the non-agitation period. Plus the diluted stock also allows me time to fill the tubes which is about 20 second due to the air tight nature when introducing the chemicals to the film chamber & draining it. During filling & draining I also slant the tube at 45degree and rotate it to get a circular even pattern, so far so good.

BTW the other side is anti-halation layer - that absorbs the reflected light from back plate, which I find pre-soaking few minutes (even the film is tight against the tube wall) prior to developer and even after fix to get rid of the blue stain else it will interfere with the scanning.

Also if one reuses the fixer its better to check its potency and extend the fix period accordingly - 2xT, (where T=time to clear the exposed leader) else that will leave behind all sorts of weird residues especially on the hi-lights.

Lastly a regime of rigorous washing (6 fills cocktail style - throwing the tank into the air is optional ) after fix also helps towards a cleaner negative. I find

This thread has diverted again from investment to a dummies guide to b&w washing - hahahahaha!
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Last edited by Garlic; 09-30-2010 at 10:59 AM..
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